Me, writing down thoughts on the oldest Zen temple of the island, Tokyo.
It is the 30th of December 2017, after over 20 km of walking in the rain. With heavy bags on our backs and wet like two drops of water into the sea, we arrive at the designated place for our sleep.
After checking in, we just want to get a hot shower, shake and do some stretch, so we rush towards our room.
On our way, a squared full optional vending machine threw at me one of Japan’s most basic lessons in capital letter: PLEASE, RELAX SLOWLY. Geniuses.
Some days after that, in a Ramen shop, hidden in the restaurant box that was given to me, trying to stay religiously silent, I read this: PLEASE, STOP TALKING AND FOCUS ON TASTE.
Man, they really are slapping me in the face every time I do something.
Of course, they do not always manage to convey all the concepts they want to. When it comes to English translations, for example, some magic happens.
If you want to have an idea, go through these descriptions. They are glorious:
I still believe that the phrase “It puts the grated yam and it eats” has a very special meaning that I will never be able to disentangle…
Anyhow, Japan has been a great experience. It was my first time there, and hopefully not the last. My practice has been heavily influenced by tales coming from that home of artists and warriors and I have not been disappointed. Not for a single instant.
Every single day felt like an eternity, given how many things we ended up doing. Just to give you an idea.. We started the day surrounded by the silent chaos of Tokyo city. Few hours later we found ourselves sailing along a huge lake in Hakone to eat some black eggs, slowly cooked in the sulfuric embers of the volcano. After rushing on the top of a mountain in front of mount Fuji, we managed to jump on the last available cable car, ending up bathing in a hot natural spring in the late evening.
We slept in different places almost every night, walking approximately 25 km every day.
Instead of training to maintain my skills and my capacities, I have used any possible moment to improve them in an ever-changing scenario. How? Climbing up into the apartment instead of using the stairs; waiting for the train in a split; sprinting to catch the train before the one displayed; using gravity to slide down all the tubes stations; resting in a squat or trying to hang with the pinkies on the bars of the tube with my bag on my back …And while doing all this: the stares of the people around me, ah! Priceless.
Our itinerary has been pretty simple. Tokyo -> surroundings -> Kyoto surroundings -> Back.
We explored Tokyo as the first thing. We visited many Zen temples and practiced zazen meditation; ate the craziest dishes we could find; infiltrated buildings to see the mega city from the very top; explored all the small, non-touristic alleys with a psychogeography approach and talked in gestures with old travelers and locals.
From there, we met our friends Alex and Sandra and we ended up in the natural area of Hakone, experiencing sailing on a huge lake, observed the huge mount Fuji and bathed into the most unique thermal scenario I have ever been in: the Onsen.
Psycogeography in Tokyo
Zen Temple Main Room
Zen Temple Front Corridor
Zen Temple Meditation Room
Water in water
Alex and Sandra
The lake
The Fuli Raising from water
The onsen’s manifesto
Those, are some almost magical places where Japanese people go, get naked from all problems and clothes to relax in the hot springs. After soaking for a while, they wash with salt and hot water. All this, in an almost surreal atmosphere (I clearly don’t have pics of the inside, guess why..).
The night after, we slept in a Ryokan, a traditional accommodation with Onsens inside the room. Amazing place, if you got the chance to try one, do it.
During New Year’s Eve, we followed some people, traditionally dressed up like foxes, and took part into a huge procession where a Lion God (Shi Shi Mai – my new favourite creature) is guided by some servants and bites the head of those who bow to protect them from bad luck and evil spirits. Kids, middle age and old people, beautifully performed.
i.e. “Find the huge grey building. Get into the basement with the code 1909. Open the mailbox by turning the handle 360 degrees on the right, then 40° on the left, then back into the starting position. Get the key. Walk up the stairs, find the red door. Hanging on the handle you will find three lockers, open the middle one with the key you got from the first floor. Get inside the house and make sure to follow the rules written behind the main door. On the table, you will find a tablet. Point it to your face so you can complete the check-in process …etc.”
Oh, and make sure you download the google translate app, open the camera and point it to all the
However, if you have the eyes to look around well and the guts to wake up early before the sun comes up or to walk around in
We were able to see beautiful gardens under the stars; hearing the sound of an alfa deer shouting his supremacy at 5 cm from our faces; see the sunrise through thick huge bamboo forests; spend time in silence with strangers, finding an incredible sense of connection and ultimately studying monkeys, aquatic creatures and other beasts in their natural environment.
The high Tokyo
Out to dinner after solving an Air Bnb Riddle
The old and the new
The old and the new 2
Meditation in the night
Zen Garden
Bamboo forest
Polite deers
Discussions with the Alfa
High in the forest
Thoughtful Cousin
To honor those places, I have written a movement poetry (haiku):
Many more things happened but it is enough for now. To conclude here, are just some more things I figured out on the island:
– As it is reported in the book travel with Buddha: Japanese are extremely inclusive, but with some limitations. To put it in a metaphor, they would invite you into their house, while forgetting the chain on the door.
– The ankle dorsiflexion is 10points more than anywhere else. They are just born differently.
If you need anything at any time just look for some seven elevens or family marts, WIFI, questionable food and smiling that hate their job but would give their life for it.
– It takes around 10 Japanese people to make up for the sound of 1 Italian
– Most people use a white mask to go everywhere. Each one for a different reason: to not infect people if they are sick; to not get infected; to avoid social interaction; to cover their faces not to be watched; to create a physical barrier from the word. I must admit, as most of the things that “can make sense”, it probably was a great tool for earning good money by someone.
– There are more Tori than people. They are everywhere, and if you think you saw the biggest one, wait for it, there is another one even bigger waiting for you at the next corner.
And trust me on this…people are …A LOT.
– It doesn’t matter where you are, you will always find a tourist taking a picture of him/herself with something. It doesn’t even matter what.
– They have a sense of community that makes them similar to ants; it is a macro-organism. They take care of one another, of public spaces; they are loyal and hard workers.
Huge Tori
Waiting for nothing
Too many people
Trust me, TOO many
Early morning squats
Bamboo forests
Beware the bamboo man
Thanks to my partner for the great adventure. Love you to bits, Ari!
Warm hugs in cold days:
Why do I care so much to tell you about my travelings?
Well, I believe traveling allow us to get a different point of views, explore other perspectives and ultimately challenge ourselves with beautiful experiences that reshape our beings. If there is one thing my mother told me when I was young and that I’ll never forget is: “the best investment you can do with money is to use them to travel”. Spot on.
Never trust those who don’t move and those who don’t travel…
Now back in Italy right in the tornado ready to run this 2018.
Marcello.
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Good article and nice photos…. Sharing with you an article on Tokyo Towers in https://stenote.blogspot.com/2018/03/tokyo-seen-from-tokyo-tower.html
Watch also the video in youtube https://youtu.be/28hz6ndPV_g